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Oct 27 23:07 UTC

How Japanese Dried Bonito Is Made (kottke.org)

204 points|by bookofjoe||53 comments|Read full story on kottke.org

Comments (53)

53 shown
  1. 1. ggm||context
    In the old Tsukiji market you walked past wooden boxes of the flakes wafting gently in the breeze and saw people milling them with green enamelled powered industrial bench planes, while cooking gas powered market trolleys trundled around, with curious drum like round control panels shifting frozen tuna sides and boxes of abalone. I've never seen those motorised carts anywhere else.

    the stuff we buy in packets here in oz must suffer in transit and packaging, they are shattered fragments but they still waft gently in the steam of a bowl of salmon and rice.

    The bonito shavings reminded me of the litter around a wood turners lathe. Waste there, but here the point of the exercise.

    I think I've had them served as a garnish on Oden. They dance.

  2. 2. halflife||context
    I was at a fish ramen place in Tokyo, they had a bonito block with a hand operated shaver, looked like a giant pencil sharpener.

    Next to the ramen they would serve the bonito flakes contained in a small net, And suggest to soak for 10 seconds, but no more than 30 because the flavor would be too intense.

  3. 3. icefrog98||context
    Reading this almost put me in that place. Thank you!
  4. 4. polalavik||context
    > Waste there, but here the point of the exercise.

    tbh reads like AI to me

  5. 5. cyberclimb||context
    Felt human to me
  6. 6. daveguy||context
    Love to see an excellent example of writing that no AI could possibly write because it does not have human experiences to provide a unique perspective. Sadly, after they get hoovered up by the AI companies, these words will eventually be laundered through the plagiarism machine.
  7. 7. jiggawatts||context
    You’re wrong: they have our human experiences! They have them second hand, but they do have them.

    See: https://chatgpt.com/share/6ade575f-61e0-83ec-95c8-3cee48f338...

  8. 8. mgaunard||context
    I'm surprised to find out there are actually people who like Oden.
  9. 9. ggm||context
    I love Oden! I've had oden in JR train stations, and in fancy posh restaurants with copper beaten flat woodfired bowls to cook it in. Its the best! The turnip is the best bit. ('turnip' sui generis)
  10. 10. mgaunard||context
    Train stations also have Yakitori, Udon, Ramen...
  11. 11. adrianN||context
    This is a very good video on the topic that shows the whole process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzULuj0wU4k (the whole series of videos is good)
  12. 12. psolidgold||context
    Thanks for the extra video, but I think the video in the original post is more informative and higher quality. Did you miss seeing it?
  13. 13. spike021||context
    I'm actually very curious about the process.

    I'm allergic to fish (can't eat tuna, salmon, etc.) but I can eat food made with pretty much any type of bonito-based dashi I've ever tried.

    Especially Japanese food like nabe, nikujaga, Aomori-style thick niboshi soup base ramen.

    Never really understood it.

  14. 14. bell-cot||context
    > I'm allergic to fish...

    I'd guess that your allergy is to some class of proteins in the fish - and that the production steps for dried bonito (and maybe the time required) denature or destroy those proteins.

  15. 15. rprwhite||context
    By the sound of it, you have a protein allergy. That is, you are allergic to a specific, or set of specific, proteins. When the proteins are denatured, you seem to not be allergic. This can happen at high temperature, low pH, or sometimes through oxidation. There’s a substantial amount of research on this if you want to look it up. But, for it to be particularly constructive, first you would need to determine to which protein you are allergic
  16. 16. sudo_cowsay||context
    I have quite a lot of allergies myself. May I ask, isn't all allergies due to the protein?
  17. 17. tux3||context
    "Proteins" is not one thing, it's a class of many different things made from amino acids. Same as the "peptide" craze you might have heard of, except proteins are bigger.

    Antibodies don't have to bind only to proteins, it could be some lipid, carbohydrate, any molecule big enough. Most of the time it's some protein, but it's not an allergy proteins in general.

  18. 18. 8cvor6j844qw_d6||context
    I wondered if you'd be allergic to Surströmming. I haven't had the privilege to try it yet.
  19. 19. throw-qqqqq||context
    One man’s privilege; another man’s punishment :D

    I absolutely cannot take that smell.

    It’s pretty common in Sweden and not too expensive. I bought from ICA last time I tried it.

    Plenty of places ship internationally AFAICT

    https://swedishgoods.co.uk/shop/ <- this one for instance

  20. 20. jyounker||context
    Basically any chemical structure beyond a certain size can cause an allergy. It doesn't even have to be an organic compund.
  21. 21. amluto||context
    Or to a protein that is sufficiently insoluble protein that there isn’t much of it in dashi.

    One could (but maybe shouldn’t) eat a bonito flake or two as an experiment.

  22. 22. graemep||context
    There are other types of dried fish from different cuisines. Sri Lankan food uses dried tuna very heavily, and some other types of dried fish in particular dishes. Might be worth trying to see whether you react to that.

    Do you react to other fish products such as south east Asian fish sauce? Salted and/or fermented fish?

  23. 23. spike021||context
    Fish sauce has yet to cause any issues for me as well. I even have a bottle that I use for myself when cooking Thai dishes.
  24. 24. aidenn0||context
    My wife is also allergic to fish.

    She can have bonito and fish sauce, and (most strangely) canned tuna. Any fresh fish makes her violently ill. She had to learn the hard way that many restaurants make their tuna salad with fresh tuna.

  25. 25. spike021||context
    that's interesting! when i was a child I could eat canned tuna as well but sadly no longer.
  26. 26. akshayrajeshwar||context
    Crazy how fish can look like a gem.
  27. 27. aswegs8||context
    Japan cultivates those oases of mindful living to the point where it feels like art. Beautiful.
  28. 28. meerita||context
    I really love Dried Bonito. It makes tasty everything.
  29. 29. NetMageSCW||context
    Some flakes are really good in (dark) miso soup.
  30. 30. avadodin||context
    The Edo period ended in 1868 so that 1888 shop is not making them like in the Edo period any more than a shop that makes them like in the Edo period since 2017.
  31. 31. Walf||context
    *1882

    Is this supposed to be some insightful criticism? They've been making the same product for 144 years, and managed to retain the technique from an era only 14 years prior. That's an achievement.

    If a place started doing the same in 2017, guess what, they could still make it like they did in the Edo period.

    Apart from a bit of machinery for lifting, and starting with frozen fish (which they thaw first anyway), it's basically all manual labour, including adjusting the fire temperature.

  32. 32. avadodin||context
    It was 88 when I read it but anyways yes it is different.
  33. 33. Walf||context
    So everyone promptly forgot how to make bonito that way because the Edo was over? Or you've studied the intricacies of bonito production by hand, and you can see all the mistakes they're making?
  34. 34. otherayden||context
    I've never tried dried bonito before but now I'll have to
  35. 35. nkrisc||context
    It’s very easy to make dashi at home with bonito and kombu (dried kelp). From there you can use it as a base for different soups or to cook with.

    There are different kinds of dashi but those are the two ingredients I use since they’re readily available and non-perishable.

  36. 36. 27183||context
    Delicious, buttery fish. Makes excellent sashimi too.
  37. 37. chanux||context
    Maldives fish is probably this but without the Japanese perfectionism.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maldives_fish

    PS: Still great, BTW

  38. 38. graemep||context
    Also dried fish dishes. There is a shop near where I live in Britain (and not in a big city) that sells both, and dried shrimp.
  39. 39. mrlonglong||context
    How did they hit upon this method? Was it an accidental discovery hundreds of years ago or was ot carefully arrived at through thinking how to make this kind of food?
  40. 40. NetMageSCW||context
    I’m sure someone over smoked a fish and someone desperate tried to eat it. Then it was gradually improved.
  41. 41. mrlonglong||context
    Meatballs are ubiquitous, every culture has their version. My theory it was invented when we walked out of Africa 60,000 years ago and it went to all the ends of the world. Or maybe we stole it from those who were there before us ...
  42. 42. layer8||context
    Almost certainly it was an incremental discovery process, first cooking and/or fumigating tuna for other consumption, then extending its shelf life by fermentation and/or sun-drying, discovering that evening out the exterior with paste helps extend it, then solving the problem that extended drying leads to hard consistency by shaving off very thin slices, stuff like that. They didn’t set out with “oh we need very thin dried tuna slices for dashi and seasoning” and then invented a whole process for that.
  43. 43. jazdw||context
    Deboning that many fillets by hand is insane
  44. 44. 27183||context
    Is there another way to do it? I suppose you could sort of fillet them all off in the initial cutting operation but you'd lose a large chunk of meat and it might not actually get them all. Deboning after the boil seems like a Pareto optimal time/ease/waste trade.
  45. 45. jazdw||context
    I mean I'm sure there are machines that do it, not that I'd expect this factory to use one. More just commenting on how tedious this must be.
  46. 46. Geezus_42||context
    The article fails to define it's subject. Do better.
  47. 47. Jarmsy||context
    I was a bit put off katsuobushi when I read that because of the tar in the smoking process it can contain carcinogenic benzopyrene
  48. 48. noman-land||context
    This is true of pretty much all smoked food, isn't it?
  49. 49. cryptonector||context
    TIL. Want. I'm going to buy some for myself. This video brings back memories of amazing restaurants in Japan.
  50. 50. yipinwong||context
    been wondering why that thing is so expensive. Now I dig it.
  51. 51. dskhatri||context
    Curious why they painstakingly arranged the frozen bonito into the truck, only to then toss them into the water at the destination. Why not just empty the cart into the truck instead of manually transferring the fish one at a time?
  52. 52. shiggaz||context
    Very Japanese. Process is often more important than efficiency
  53. 53. christophilus||context
    I was curious what the paste was. According to Brave search AI (whatever LLM that is): The paste used on dried bonito (known as katsuobushi) is made from the fish’s own head and scrapings (called nakaochi), which are mixed with the fish’s own flesh.